Another bucket list item

In a previous post, I talked about buying a 2001 BMW R1100RT in Texas with the intention of riding it back to Virginia. Hurricane Florence and then Tropical Storm Gordon delayed that trip for two weeks so I rode 1,000 miles on hot Texas Roads getting used to the bike.

One training trip was a good example of an unusual America Road Side attraction.

A What?

US Roadside attractions are giant, turn-your-head, what was that, weird roadside stuff. For example, there are scores of Giant Muffler Men such as the Joor Muffler Man. Here is a map of all the muffler men around America. A Giant Paul Bunyan is another example. 

Or maybe the world’s largest ball of sisal twine built by a community in Cawker, Kansas. There is also the world’s heaviest ball of sisal twine in Lake Nebagamon, Wisconsin, almost 20,000 pounds and the world’s largest ball of nylon twine in Branson, Missouri. It’s a mere lightweight at 12,000 pounds. 

Of course, you are familiar with Cadillac Ranch. 

Anyway, I rode to Bowie Texas and saw the world’s largest Bowie knife, made of steel and wood. Not just a statue but a real knife, though unsharpened. Of, there is not much else in Bowie, this was pretty much it. Rode further to Wichita Falls, TX, another nondescript town, hoping to see the Professional Wrestling Hall of Fame and Museum but sadly it was closed on Monday.

Do I like professional wrestling? Not really, but think of the bragging rights for going there. 

The Grand Adventure

Day One – Tuesday 09-25-2018 – Keller, TX to Mena, AR – 300 miles

Finally left Keller, TX riding through north Texas, past Durant, Springtown, and Talihina, Oklahoma to the Talimena National Scenic Byway , a 54 mile, two-lane highway passing through the Ouachita National Forest over the Winding Stairs and Rich Mountains of eastern Oklahoma and western Arkansas. Originally two truck routes built in the 1930s by the CCC, they were upgraded and joined in 1969 and designated a National Scenic Byway in 1989. It has grades up to 13%.

Stopped to see the Queen Wilhelmina Lodge and considered spending the night but pushed on to the more affordable (and far less scenic) Executive Suite in Mena, Arkansas. Not the most progressive town as the motel made no attempt to have WiFi. It was not that it was slow, intermittent, or not working. They just didn’t have it. Turns out McDonald’s was probably the main hot spot for the city. 

Wish I had more time there as the Ozarks are prime motorcycle country.

Day Two – Wednesday 09-26-2018 – Mena, AR to Brownsville, TN – 376 miles

This was my longest mileage day. After a McDonald’s breakfast (and Wifi) I rode to Hot Springs on some of the nicest country roads of the trip. Gently curving, no traffic, quiet, and scenic. I took extra time to go through Hot Springs but found it uninteresting. 

To make some miles, I hopped on the Interstate riding past Little Rock and Memphis, settling into a Motel 6 near Brownsville TN where I had an enjoyable conversation with Wayne Papania, President of MedCoAmerica and fellow motorcyclist. Shout out to you Wayne. 

Day Three – Thursday 09-27-2018 – Brownsville, TN to Scottsboro, TN – 255 miles

Awoke early to torrential rain, worried that my uncovered bike would develop an electrical short. Bummer, so much for an early start, and, I reluctantly admit this, I had never tested out my rain gear on the bike. Sure did this day! My sailing foul weather jacket worked fine, my gloves were soaked, and the Frogg Togg pants were OK. 

The rain slacked off about 9 am but the skies remained heavy. Wiped the bike off best I could and it fired right up. After all the Interstate miles the previous day, I wanted to go back roads to Chattanooga. So I followed the GPS but didn’t read the map beforehand. Mistake. The GPS lead me back west and then east, at least 50 miles out of the way, no small distance on a motorcycle.

Later in the day, I rode back into pouring rain and had to stop under a gas station awning. Between the deep rain puddles on the road, poor visibility, wind, and rooster tail spray from trucks, it felt unsafe. The rain stopped so I took off again but I later realized that I was chasing the storm and caught up with it again. More pouring rain. So, instead of repeatedly chasing the storm to Chattanooga, I gave up and got a room at the Red Roof Inn in Scottsboro TN with a Chinese buffet dinner nearby. 

Day Four – Friday 09-28-2018 – Scottsboro, TN to Asheville, NC – 339 miles

Left Scottsboro and used the GPS to negotiate through and beyond Chattanooga getting off I-24 at the working town of Calhoun, TN. Of note, while I prefer maps, the GPS was invaluable for making quick route decisions at Interstate speeds while dodging tractor trailers and their wind buffeting.

Wandered to Tellico Plains, the start of the Cherohala Skyway, another National Byway opened in 1996. This 40+ mile, two-lane highway connects Tellico Plains TN with Robbinsville NC and climbs up and down 5,000 feet through the Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests, hence the name … “Cherokee” and “Nantahala“.

More beautiful scenery. The road was full of motorcycles and vintage British, two-seater sports cars. Went to the tourist trap of Cherokee NC and wanted to stay. This area of the Smokies is full of great motorcycle routes and I will plan a trip just to spend a week there. Since Cherokee is the southern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway, I got on the BRP north and found a Motel 6 in Asheville, NC.  

Day Five – Saturday 09-29-2018 – Asheville, NC to Troutville, VA

Slow start this morning because of a heavy fog. Followed the Blue Ridge Parkway with a lunch break at Mabry Mill, the most photographed location on the BRP. Then on to Roanoke and, after 300 miles, stayed in a Red Roof Inn in Troutville with a terrific cranberry, pecan chicken salad at Angelles Diner. Highly recommend this eatery.

Why Troutville? Well, I had stayed there on my previous Southwest Virginia motorcycle trip this year. Reasonable hotel prices but it proved to be further from the Blue Ridge Parkway than I wanted. 

Day Six – Sunday 09-30-2018 – Troutville, VA to Midlothian – 240 miles

Final day with more fog on the mountains especially at the Peaks of Otter where visibility at times dropped to 20 feet, a wee bit dangerous on mountain curves.   

Decided to finish the entire Blue Ridge Parkway rather than getting off early and returning to Richmond faster on Route 60. Again, lots of motorcycles on the BRP. 

So ended up doing 1,784 miles, more than then 1,400 I anticipated. Using interstates would have been much faster but not as much fun. 

Thanks to Freedom Powersports and Michael Branson for the means to make this happen!

For my own memories, here are some of the maps.

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

The final two days were on the Blue Ridge Parkway which doesn’t show up on Google Maps.